I have a lot of videos and songs that are filling up my present hard drives. The proposed 2TB drive would be used primarily to store movies and music and data, and whatever else I wish to store there.
I am considering building a new system that features a 2TB drive. Windows 7 and apps and data) and partition the 2TB OR I should use a smaller drive for Win7 and apps, while using the 2TB as a data drive only. If you have anything to say on the matter, please let me know.
AMD Athlon 642800, 2 GB RAM (DDR2), 300GB and 2TB HDDs, ATi Radeon HD 3450 (AGP), Shuttle AN51R mobo, SB Live! sound card, HP DVD burner, USB card reader
You cheap ugg bailey button boots could go two ways here. If you buy a highperformance 2TB drive, you'd probably get slightly faster performance by moving your OS over; newer and bigger drives tend to be faster, because of increased platter density. If you go for a lowerpower, lowercost, and lowerspeed model like a Caviar Green or Barracuda LP, you'd be better served by keeping your OS on the 1TB drive and using the 2TB for bulk data. In any case, if you've got your OS on the 300GB drive, get it off of there it's an old drive, which means it's slower, and at six years you're looking at significantly higher chances bailey button uggs of mechanical failure.
Thebolt wrote:On the eBay note make sure that you properly erase your data if you're going to sell it(if it's even worth it). I think a program called diskshredder was the ticket. Don't want people getting a hold of your personal information(formatting the drive leaves the data easily recoverable IIRC).
What you want is DBAN, Darik's Boot and Nuke. Does exactly what it says: it creates a boot CD/floppy/USB key that securely wipes the drive you select. Don't worry about more than one pass or round; any hard drive made to remotely modern standards is going to be completely unrecoverable after one random wipe. The multipass DoD standards are based on drives from the 80s that could misalign themselves a tiny bit, and not completely overwrite old data; that's not a concern with modern drives.
reactorfuel wrote:Thebolt wrote:On the eBay note make sure that you properly erase your data if you're going to sell it(if it's even worth it). I think a program called diskshredder was the ticket. Don't want people getting a hold of your personal information(formatting the drive leaves the data easily recoverable IIRC).
What you want is DBAN, Darik's Boot and Nuke. Does exactly what it says: it creates a boot CD/floppy/USB key that securely wipes the drive you select. Don't worry about more than one pass or round; any hard drive made to remotely modern standards is going to be completely unrecoverable after one random wipe. The multipass DoD standards are based on drives from the 80s that could misalign themselves a tiny bit, and not completely overwrite old data; that's not a concern with modern drives.
The last time I had a drive I wanted to sell, I used DBAN. It took a while, but it is very effective. Thanks for that suggestion as well.
AMD Athlon 642800, 2 GB RAM (DDR2), 300GB and 2TB HDDs, ATi Radeon HD 3450 (AGP), Shuttle AN51R mobo, SB Live! sound card, HP DVD burner, USB card reader
riviera74 wrote:Hmm. The latter idea did cross my mind. When I build the new PC, the 300GB is going straight to eBay anyways. As for keeping the 1TB for Windows 7 and apps. maybe I will. Thanks for the advice!
I agree with keeping the 1TB for OS+apps (assuming the drive is a recent enough 7200rpm at least) and a larger (may be more power efficient and quiet) drive for storage. As for the 300GB, you can consider getting an enclosure to slap the drive in and use it as a portable drive. Just a thought.
